batbling
Gnarly Dude
[Mo0:3][ss:Default]
Posts: 2,057
Faster on: the physio table
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Post by batbling on Oct 4, 2014 17:00:58 GMT
OK - now 1x10 is running sweetly next job is to bleed the Reverb. (which I have to say has run great for the last 18 months but is now in need of a bleed).
Looks pretty straightforward to anyone who can bleed brakes (that includes me). Anyone who has done it yet got any tips ?
*insert post from Muddy about overpriced and over complicated bits of kit somewhere below here*
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Post by Fishybob666 on Oct 4, 2014 23:56:24 GMT
Yeah my tip is that you should buy my RS reverb bleed kit, brand new never used. Loads of videos on the Tube
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Post by Si on Oct 5, 2014 17:12:20 GMT
I bled mine, but it's just the lever assembly you bleed, not the post itself. If there's air in the post (vertical play, quasi-suspension post), it's a TF tuned job I'm afraid. If it is the lever, Epic bleed solutions kit and instructions worked for me, pretty straightforward.
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batbling
Gnarly Dude
[Mo0:3][ss:Default]
Posts: 2,057
Faster on: the physio table
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Post by batbling on Oct 5, 2014 19:15:51 GMT
That's good to know - it is vertical play I've got. So looking at threads that's likely low air pressure that I don't feel gear about fiddling with.
It's had 18mths of use so not surprised it's due some TLC.
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Post by Huey on Oct 6, 2014 12:15:00 GMT
Anyone know anything about replacing the lever boot? I just got hold of one (no names ) and the lever boot is ripped up. I've done no research whatsoever on this.
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Post by Richard on Oct 6, 2014 12:34:50 GMT
Anyone know anything about replacing the lever boot? I just got hold of one (no names ) and the lever boot is ripped up. I've done no research whatsoever on this. that's unlike you
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Post by Richard on Oct 6, 2014 12:40:55 GMT
OK - now 1x10 is running sweetly next job is to bleed the Reverb. (which I have to say has run great for the last 18 months but is now in need of a bleed). Looks pretty straightforward to anyone who can bleed brakes (that includes me). Anyone who has done it yet got any tips ? * insert post from Muddy about overpriced and over complicated bits of kit somewhere below here* I think that this has been answered by Si in his post. I bled mine, but it's just the lever assembly you bleed, not the post itself. If there's air in the post (vertical play, quasi-suspension post), it's a TF tuned job I'm afraid. If it is the lever, Epic bleed solutions kit and instructions worked for me, pretty straightforward. You have to send a a seat post, I mean a bloomin seat post off to TF Tuned Shox? How much will that cost?
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Post by Si on Oct 6, 2014 12:57:29 GMT
... it's a TF tuned job I'm afraid. You have to send a a seat post, I mean a bloomin seat post off to TF Tuned Shox? How much will that cost? Yeah, imagine that! Remember fully-rigid forks? V-brakes? Never had to send them off to get the seals replaced neither... I could ride my 20-year old KHS (yes, those ARE cantis, none of this fancy V-brake business here!) on the Surrey Hills, and for most of the bridleways, it will be just as good. In fact, I'd probably be quicker on a NDW hack! However, for mucking about, or shredding the gnar, in forum parlance, I LOVE 150mm of travel, slack angles, sticky tyres, hydraulic discs, and yes, my dropper post. I think all of those innovations make sufficient difference to compensating for my lack of skill/confidence to make my riding more enjoyable, and what's it all about if we're not enjoying it? All those things take more maintenance, cost and upkeep than their luddite old-school equivalent, but to me, it's worth it. Man, I love that gnar!
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Post by Huey on Oct 6, 2014 13:34:20 GMT
Anyone know anything about replacing the lever boot? I just got hold of one (no names ) and the lever boot is ripped up. I've done no research whatsoever on this. that's unlike you Indeed. Much on, so thought I'd try information gathering by proxy for once
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batbling
Gnarly Dude
[Mo0:3][ss:Default]
Posts: 2,057
Faster on: the physio table
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Post by batbling on Oct 6, 2014 13:51:22 GMT
Yeah, imagine that! Remember fully-rigid forks? V-brakes? Never had to send them off to get the seals replaced neither... I could ride my 20-year old KHS (yes, those ARE cantis, none of this fancy V-brake business here!) on the Surrey Hills, and for most of the bridleways, it will be just as good. In fact, I'd probably be quicker on a NDW hack! However, for mucking about, or shredding the gnar, in forum parlance, I LOVE 150mm of travel, slack angles, sticky tyres, hydraulic discs, and yes, my dropper post. I think all of those innovations make sufficient difference to compensating for my lack of skill/confidence to make my riding more enjoyable, and what's it all about if we're not enjoying it? All those things take more maintenance, cost and upkeep than their luddite old-school equivalent, but to me, it's worth it. Man, I love that gnar!
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batbling
Gnarly Dude
[Mo0:3][ss:Default]
Posts: 2,057
Faster on: the physio table
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Post by batbling on Oct 24, 2014 17:06:59 GMT
OK - that turned out to be pretty painless. Got great service from Grant at Southcoast Suspension who did a full service and bleed for £45 - much cheaper than TF Tuned. Turned around nice and quick and did a great job. He also does forks, shocks and some other seatposts so check him out. I rerouted (internal tubing) and re-bled the fella (Epic bleed solutions kit) and now all working and ready to roll back into the 21st Century. Bleeding was as easy as a set of Avids.
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